Centerfield

Not off topic at all, it's your topic!

Great stuff. Except the Dead archive. I had a Deadhead roommate years ago and got seriously burned out on Jerry and the boyz.

Speaking of geeking out, on advice from Instapundit, I sent this list to my wife as a request for Christmas. She got me the Griffin RocketFM which I was quite psyched about. Trouble is, it sucks. The only way I ever got it to work without a ton of static was by hooking it up to the laptop and setting the laptop on top of the stereo. And I have a pretty decent powered FM antenna so it's not that.

I highly recommend you stay away from that product as a geek gift. Anything broadcasting over FM airwaves that has a recommended range of 10-30 feet is probably not going to work out so well.

So now maybe I'll look into the list Marcus threw out there instead since the RocketFM has been shot back to Griffin.

Other geeky things--I put a liquid cooling system in my main computer after months of frustration caused by a hot-running CPU and air-cooling solutions that simply didn't work well enough. (A Prescott chip, of course.) Now it's stable as a rock and I've tweaked it up a few hairs. I can't get into unstable core-temp range even when I'm smokin' the hyper-threading at 100% @ a 12% overclock. All those random shutdowns have vanished.

The better half keeps making jokes about my putting a Dodge radiator in the unit and pretending she can smell burning antifreeze, but she's quit complaining about the "wind tunnel" effect of hi-volume air forcing. And it's much quieter at my desk now. :-)

We run a five-unit hard-wired home 10/100 network on a cable connection, and I built all the computers myself. So I never have to call tech "support" in India....

I always figured you were some kind of a geek, Tully, but I had no idea just how much of one you really are! Is anything geekier than liquid cooling? (and can you give me some pointers as I'm about ready to build a new system myself?)

By the way, you could have just tried this.

Best info can be had by subscribing to the gamespy.com newsletter. They have articles and product reviews each day including a number of articles on cooling your system.
You also may want to check out there archives.

My kids would probably have tried to put their bettas in the tank to socialize, Pat! And overclocking is geekier than liquid cooling. I had to cool, I don't have any good reason to OC except wanting to. Being able to actually parse out and re-write program code is even geekier, but I gave that up years back. Made my head hurt.

Depends on what you're going to use the computer for. Unless you're intent on high-end "stress" performance (hardcore gaming and graphics, or parsing out an entire state worth of voter data without waiting six hours...) you can get decent working units pretty cheap right now. Just remember to strip all the subsidized crapware off 'em and sweep 'em clean of pre-installed spyware BEFORE going online. I use AVG, Spybot, ZoneAlarm, and some other goodies. Freeware for private use, all of them. (Norton and McAfee annoy the heck out of me, and that crapware can REALLY slow your computer down.) Just because including that subsidized crapware lets 'em sell you the computer cheaper doesn't mean you want it in your home.

What Marcus said. I think it was at gamespy a few years back that someone posted a photo of an actual Toyota radiator being used for cooling an early overclocked AMD box.

Hey, I did a little assembly language back in high school, so I've got some geek cred myself. I've done a little bit of precinct and polling data analysis on my system and anticipate doing more, but my biggest use is for my photography hobby. My new Canon 5d shoots 12 megapixel images, and converting the RAW files is SLOOOOWWWWW right now. And when you start putting them in layers in giant Adobe Photoshop files, or putting together photobooks with MS Publisher, and you need a lot of RAM (you are so right, Marcus) and high processor speeds.

Plus, Civilization IV kind of crawls on my current system...

I've always bought before at "assemble-exactly-what-you-want" kind of stores on-line, ABS Systems and the like. They don't put any crap-ware on them to begin with, and you are able to get name-brand components, not just low-cost-vendor-of-the-day parts like many big name systems give you. But I've been itching to build my own system from the motherboard up for some time now. And working at an educational institution, I can now legally download a bunch of Microsoft software (including XP) for free now, so it's a great time to do it. Don't know whether I'll go the liquid cooling route or not...

assembly language....almost got into that. We had little wangs for that.
As it is I worked with a PDP-8 in high school connected up to the Lawrence Hall of Science in Berkeley.
-that was 8 K of RAM by the way. Paper tape loads.

One afternoon I programmed it to print out the Fish Cheer from Country Joe and The Fish "Feel Like I'm fixin to Die Rag". It was an exercise in using a loop for part of the print out. My choice of subject matter however was not so fortunate.

Just so happened that a bunch of academics were being shown what us geeky high schoolers were doing with the new technology.

oops

At Cal I was better - did runway simulation - (gee now that I think of it I coulda done SimAirport - I had tornadoes and other hazards. No Godzilla though.) and a blackjack simulation that was to show the advantages or disadvantages of a certain betting procedure on an infinite deck of cards. Had to stay up allllll night one time before a French midterm to debug the sucker (Fortran IV) and it turned out that one variable was getting reinitialized in every loop instead of carrying over the previous info.
Got about an hour nap and fortunately aced the oral exam.
Now I'm just hankering to fool around with plug-ins or scripts for Bauhaus Mirage which is a cool graphics animation tool.

RAM is good. RAM is your friend. I don't think it's possible to have Too Much RAM!

I remember feeding IBM punch cards into the trays in college...but that's certifying geezerhood, not geekdom.

I second the recommendation of Audacity. I've downloaded it and use it to produce MP3's suitable for podcasting.

It's a longshot that anyone can answer this for me...a TV problem. Our TV recently began having trouble processing audio...I check it out via cable and via air reception, and the audio comes in as mostly static.

I played a VCR tape and got static.

I played a DVD, and no static.

The TV is about 5 years old, but it has a nice big 32 inch screen and the picture is still very good. Anyone have any thoughts, or resources to check out?

LOL at the Country Joe thing, Marcus. Oops! Did they expect you to only do dull and boring stuff? I almost got booted from one campus when I accidentally (I swear) intro'd a recursive loop that propagated through the mainframe somehow. The Mainframe Lord was NOT pleased with me.

My first computer was a Sinclair with two whole kilobytes of RAM. Woo hoo! It could play decent chess, if you didn't mind waiting an hour or two between moves. We later built a 12kb add-on memory board for it--the board was three times the size of the computer. Then it was only half an hour between moves. (Us computer geezers will appreciate this song.)

Brian, what're your device linkages coming in from the cable? Have you tried a different TV on the direct cable connect to see if it's the cable feed and not your equipment? Do your DVD and VCR share a link to the TV, or use different inputs? Does your cable feed to your TV through the VCR, and the DVD come in through another jack? :-)

Brian, if you e-mail me a picture of your various cable connections to the back of the TV, VCR, and DVD, I'll try to diagnose it for you.

I don't think it's the cable. Other TVs in the house work fine on the cable.

And for the affected TV, I disconnected the cable and hooked up an antenna, and the audio signal was still fuzzy even though I could receive the visual from a local station clearly. This leads me to believe that the problem is not related to either the cable or the method of hook-up.

And a DVD plays perfectly fine with no audio problems at all. So I know that it's not the TV's speakers. I also know this because when I shut of the TV's speakers and checked the audio output that goes to my stereo receiever, that signal is also fuzzy. The most puzzling thing is that I can't account for the VCR audio being screwy, so I plan to double check that.

But my current hypothesis is that whatever internal device in the TV tunes the audio signal has malfunctioned, and the signal from the DVD must be already tuned, so it sounds OK. Perhaps the VCR signal is fuzzy because it's an old device whose audio signal must be tuned.

I'd prefer to keep this nice big TV, but they're so cheap now that it doesn't make sense unless I can fix it for say less than $100. Who even repairs TVs these days?

speaking of hacks blackboxvoting.org has an easy hack for some voting machines - ES&S and Sequoia Optechs:

JIM'S RIG-A-VOTE RECIPE

1. Unscrew the top of the pack.

The most critical chip holding the ballot/candidate/precinct layouts is sitting right there
in an easy-access socket.

2. Find a chip burner. Once the chip is out with a screwdriver, you can find alteration
devices (chip burner) for that chip even more easily that you can find the Crop Scanner.

Tip for finding a read/write device: The chips is called an "EPROM" - Electrically
Programmable Read Only Memory .

Here are some examples:

http://www.stag.co.uk/products/EEprom_programmer.htm
http://www.action2k.com/topmax.htm
http://www.elettronicaceleste.com/celeste/programmatore_eeprom/sp280_uk.htm

3. Put the chip in the chip burner device connected to a PC and read the contents.
Edit at will using your PC.

4. Peel the sticker off the back of the EPROM, exposing a glass window. This
makes the actual silicon surface visible through the glass. It's a neat looking critter,
shiny and with lots of tiny circuits that geeks will love.

5. Put the chip in a tiny mouse-sized tanning booth. No, we’re not kidding – exposure
to UV light for 25 minutes erases EPROMs. (Warning: We do not recommend putting
in an actual mouse unless you can find very small sunglasses for him.)

PICTURE: http://testequip.com//sale/used/pictures/HES2152.jpg

6. Put the sticker back on the chip’s glass window and put it into the chip burner
connected to the PC, and download your tampered code from your PC back to
the chip.

7. Put the chip back into the "pack" and you’re done.

oh boy. kids could do this. small kids.

BTW Hagel may have been a beneficiary of such hacking in 96. Turns out where he ran such ES&S voting machines (Hagel was part owner) were being used.

Brian, is your VCR hooked up to the TV using the antenna/cable connection, while your DVD player is connected with RCA plugs directly to video/audio in ports? Try outputting your VCR using the same connections to the TV as your DVD player. Bet the sound works then. If it does, you could just use the VCR as your TV tuner and watch all your programs through it.

Exactly what I was thinking, Pat. A bad or shorted wire at the cable-in jack, or a bad jack. If the sound circuits were shot he'd still get lousy sound with the DVD as well. Brian, if it's just a bad connect at the jack, the fix would be reasonably cheap, mostly the labor to access the wiring and replace/resolder the connection. Or you can just do the work-around, and see how that works. Leave the VCR on the cable, but connect to the TV with the AUX inputs/outputs.

Marcus, don't know about your stretch of the woods, but around here vote totals are read and reported to the county election commission in much less time than the procedure you described. The totals are later cross-compared with the signature books. Any gross variations would be notable, and smaller variations would have to widespread to have any effect in anything but the tightest races. Meaning you'd need a WHOLE LOT of conspirators, all real good at keeping secrets. Every single one of which would have solid blackmail material in hand. It wouldn't stay secret for long.

If we can't keep classified programs known only to a few security-screened top secret personnel from leaking, how could you keep THAT quiet? Heck, Bush couldn't keep quiet the 2003 hush-hush meeting of his top aides where he ordered everyone to stop leaking to the press. (A complete account was leaked to the press inside of an hour.)

Thanks Pat, That's a good thought to try to use the VCR tuner. I really need to trace the complete signal path just for the sake of future connections.

I was concentrating on isolating the problem, and I had planned to trace the path if my other tests had determined that the audio worked ok via antenna.

Right now the cable feed goes I think to the VCR, then splits to feed 2 TVs. A DVD and gamecube are linked in via an A/B switch to the RCA outlets. So there are two data streams as it were. I knew I should have paid an extra 5 bucks for the A/B/C switch. :-)

Good call, that's what was confusing me now that I think of it, there are two streams into the TV, not 1. So the RCA feeds are what I should use if I just want to use the TV as a monitor, which it seems able to do...

The only wrinkle is that this TV, (an RCA BTW) includes a built-in guide that reads the cable feed and tells me what is on, so if I want to keep that running as a resource, I'll have to feed cable into the TV rom the cable jack to keep the guide running, and then tune the shows we watch through the VCR.

One more query in case you know. If I get digital cable or satellite, do these act as tuners via the RCA plugs using the TV only as a monitor? Tinfoil hat thought: I can't help the paranoid thought that cable screwed up my TV on purpose as part of a plot to screw me, so if I upgrade, I'l go with satellite just to paranoid-fantasy-stick it to them...

Yeah, the digital cable and the satellite will be your primary tuner, though I'm sure most offer the option to connect to either the RCA ports or the antenna/cable port.

After an unfortunate tugging of cables stressed by S-Video-in port of my TV, every now and then, on some channels more often than others, some static or feedback loop causes my screen to fuzz out and the audio to screech at me. I have to either literally hit the TV or jiggle the S-Video connection (even when not watching the DVD which comes into the TV on the S-Video connection) to fix it. I'm sure it only needs some soldering of a loose connection, but I'm not sure if Baton Rouge has any old-fashioned TV repairmen around any more. And I don't feel like hauling it down from its perch, cracking it open, and soldering it myself.

Just reading this thread in its entirety is the geekiest thing I've done in a while, and I'm an EE. That says something about you guys. Don't start talking about Star Trek or I'm sending in the Feds.

Funny you should mention Star Trek, WHQ, since I was just thinking about the time I played the Star Trek mainframe game ON A TELETYPE device over a phone connection (the old-fashioned kind, where you physically put the phone's receiver on the little holder cradle). Every line, every command done solely in print on paper, no monitors involved!

Bonus Question: 10 points to the first person who can identify the platform which played "Blue Meanies from Outer Space". No using Google!

Don't start talking about Star Trek or I'm sending in the Feds.

The Federation? ;-)

Wrong kinda geeks, methinks!

(Just to be clear, Marcus, I don't doubt at all that it can be done with some types of machines, but from being an election judge and perpetual observer I can think of much simpler and easier ways to rig votes, less likely of discovery. And now I have this persistent visual of the mice in HITCHHIKER'S GUIDE wearing Ray-Bans as they activate the Arthur Dent skull-slicer...)

LOL. I don't need google for that one! But I'll let someone else geek that in. :-)

The easiest way to commit election fraud is for a few poll commissioners to stay open a little past poll closing time ("there were people in line, you see"), look at the list to see who hasn't voted, then go in and vote for them. Forge their signature on the roster, then vote 'em how you want 'em. Depending on your local poll commissioner requirements, takes just 2 or 3 people per polling place, and no techincal know-how at all. Heck, even if you have 3 commissioners, you only need 1 active, knowing participant, if the other 2 just agree to sign the blank paperwork and leave early without asking any questions.

That's the classic all right, Pat. Can you say "Philadelphia?" :-)

But there's something even easier. Provisional ballots. You have all day to obtain blanks if you don't have one in advance. Then you simply sub your false ballots for the real ones, and lose the real ones. As long as the paper count matches, no one will catch it. One poll worker and a moment of misdirection, maybe one outside accomplice to bring in the sub ballots if you couldn't do all the prep ahead of time. You can do it at crunch time, when the poll are packed with late-comers and everyone's busy.

There's also poll-stacking, where outsiders are brought in to vote any false names or deceased voters on the register. Another old favorite, especially in St. Louis and Chicago, where the dead reliably rise from their graves every Election Day.

And of course methods can be combined. Just try not to get over 100% turnout for the precinct. Suspicious.

The provisional ballot scam is even easier, Tully, when (as in Seattle) you count "lost" ballots that you suddenly find tucked in a corner of the courthouse somewhere, a week after the election.

Gee, I was just trying to stick to at-the-poll methods...that way we didn't have to go into the "corrupt election commission office" area!

Tully, as far as I know there is also cross checking in CA but the thoroughness depends on the jurisdiction. However since it takes as little as a 1 to 5 % swing in the vote can change the outcome it seem pretty easy to gimmick the memory chips in just a few key precincts.

In California the electronic voting machines are in big trouble ... there was a test in December of some Diebold machines and those were hacked with ease. the Sec of State of FL has ordered them to be certified federally before they can be certified. CA and PA have also refused to certify Diebold machines. Diebold has also refused to turn over its source code to South Carolina as is dictated by a new voting law.

One other thing...someone has found an "interpreter" in a Diebold system. Such interpreters can change the outcome of the vote for that particular machine, i.e. make every 10th republican vote a democrat vote. YOu also might recall there was unsecured remote access to a number of Diebold machines around the country.
So if anything I hope this ends some sloppy tech practices.

At worse we paint our thumbs purple and use pens on hand counted ballots. Problem is everyone wants instant this and instant that.

Yeah, I backtracked to the testing/hacking news. NO sympathy for Diebold. Turn over the code or don't sell. I'm all for making the machines better and more secure.

A 1% swing in a Congressional election is a pretty darn substantial number, and would be quite likely to show up, just as the poll-stuffing techniques do. Smaller elections are of course different--but smaller elections aren't generally worth diddling the machines for. I personally like having a paper trail, but as Washington state demonstrated, no system is proof against simple incompetence, much less concentrated fraud. As the old saying goes, if it's not close they can't cheat. And if it's not close then incompetence doesn't change the results.

But poll-stuffing and such still works, because it's tough to prove even when you can look at the numbers and be pretty darn certain it happened. And you can't throw out a whole precinct without proof. Or precincts--as with Philly and St. Louis and Chicago. If you could, people would be figuring ways to "poison" their opponent's precincts to get them thrown out. You don't know who voted for who, so even when you know for a fact that it happened you can't throw out the precinct results, as most of the votes will still be valid, and the courts are willing to let bad votes through to avoid throwing out good ones.

No easy answers. No free lunches. Just have to do our darndest to reduce the odds that cheating will work for anyone, and increase the odds of catching (and severely prosecuting) the cheaters.

Not wanting to appear totally anti-geek, might I inquire how this overclocking trick is achieved. I'll take my answer of the air as the second half is beginning.

I would add that it's vitally important to seriously punish procedural infractions by poll commissioners and others involved in the voting process. When the procedural requirements are followed (all poll commissioners sign all the documents they are supposed to sign, at the time they are supposed to assign them, etc.), then one can be fairly certain that no fraud occurred, or at least that, if it did, all of the commissioners were in on it (increasing the likelihood of one of them confessing). But when the procedural rules aren't followed, then we have no way of determining whether fraud took place, or whether people were just careless. I posted extensively on the issue in the wake of the Washington problems here.

P.S. Tully, looks like nobody else is going to claim the bonus points, so you might as well go ahead...

The ol' VIC 20, Pat.

WHQ, overclocking is the instant voiding of all your component warranties by diddling your system bus speeds and power settings to make your CPU run somewhat faster than designed. :-)

Sometimes much faster. Aside from the obvious geek factor (Cool!!!) the idea is having a top-end-speed computer for a mid-end price. Or having a top-end computer that's faster than the currrent top-end production models. This is possible because chipmakers build in dependability margins, and often overdesign the chips to use them as the base for higher chips. Sometimes the difference between a mid-level chip and a high-end chip is nothing but factory clock-setting. The cores are the same, but the manufacturer "tells" the chip it's supposed to be a 2.4ghz, so it is. Its identical brother can be "told" it's a 3.0ghz.

For example, I can easily get my 3.2ghz P4 to run at stable core & system speeds of 3.6ghz by diddling my FSB via the BIOS from 200 to 226, a 12%+ boost. It would probably go much higher, but since I rely on this computer, I'm not willing to try yet. But speed increases of 50% or more are not unknown. I think this particular chip could probably be run well over 4.0ghz without too much trouble, I just don't wanna fry it in the attempt. (This all requires the right mobo--not every mobo is user-clockable.)

The problem with overclocking is generally heat. We know how microcircuitry LOVES heat. Not! Overdriving the CPU boosts the heat output considerably. OC'ing requires radically improved cooling solutions, like a Dodge radiator. The other problem is stability. Your components are not really designed to be run at odd clock speeds. Sooner or later you hit the point of system instability, where no matter how much you tweak your memory latencies and other power settings and CPU and GPU, the components will get flaky and refuse to synch and the system simply will not be stable, and will lock, crash, etc. Or not even boot past BIOS.

The old PC "Turbo" button was actually a factory instant overclock. The original geek-out overclock chip was the Slot 1 Celeron 266 & 300, which was based on a P2 400 core. People OC'ed before that, but that was when it took off.

For a while (I wish I remembered the specific chip!) there was a Socket 370 Celeron that was the exact same as it's P3 non-Celeron brother--all Intel did was disable half the cache! You could solder the missing cache connection back into place and turn it directly into a full P3 in about two minutes.

Geeky enough?

Tully, I don't recall that Celeron chip, but I certainly remember that a missing pin was the only difference between the 486DX (with math coprocessor) and the 486SX (without). I switched to AMD once their performance caught up simply because I was tired of Intel marketing their chips by putting more work into the expensive product to turn it into a cheaper product. I understand the reasons for it, but it just offends me that they actively cripple perfectly good products solely for marketing purposes.

I still have my old Commodore VIC 20 in a box in my garage, with tape player and everything. I really need to hook it up to the TV sometime and see if it stil works.

I think it was one of the Celeron 400's, and it "converted" directly to a P2/400. Had to use a Slocket and a Slot 1 board, but it was also OC'able direct to 533 by bumping the FSB from 100 to 133.

AMD makes great chips for the money. I once found an experimental K6-III+/350 AMD chip on eBay that I built a "play" system around. Ran stable as a rock at 525 (a direct 50% full-system OC, from a 100FSB to a 150FSB) for about 14 months, before the mobo capacitors rebelled and failed at the power load. By then it was so out of date there was no point. And I had a Celeron 433 that ran quite happily at 541, and not-so-happily at 650.

Nowadays if I'm going to rely on it instead of play with it I go high-end out the gate. By the time you finish a decent OC today you've spent high-end money on the heat mods and such, erasing any real $$$ advantage. The Celeron/P2 OC's made good sen$e, with the Celeron at $100 and the equivalent P2 at $250 and up. You could fry a Celeron and replace it and still have change AND a faster computer.

Thanks, Tully. I thought it was something along those lines. I read something about bus rate multipliers a few years ago and was hoping you would mention bus rates to satisfy my need for cosmic continuity. I'm reminded of two things: souping up cars the modern way, by simply replacing or reprogramming the electronics without having to touch the mechanical components, and getting more than rated output from power transformers by cooling them with fans. What's the coolant in your liquid cooling system? I'm hoping for something more interesting than water. And, yeah, geeky enough for sure.

Distilled water with 10% propylene glycol and 5% Red Line Water Wetter, an agent that reduces the surface tension of water by about 50% and thus provides some major improvement in hot-point heat transfer (as well as some anti-corrosion and decalcification benefits, just in case your distilled water isn't as distilled as it should be). About the same solution I'd use in a "track" engine in the summer. :-)

It's using two fan-blown copper pipe & fin radiators (the rear radiator/fan assembly doubles as a case exhaust fan)with adjustable fan speeds, has a front-panel control and LCD display, and it's rigged to automatically shut down the computer if either one of the fans or the pump fails, or if the core temp registers past the pre-set. The rear fan kicks up automatically at another (lower) preset, the front fan has a manual dial control. There are copper-block heatsinks with full flow on the CPU and GPU, and an aluminum-bock flow frame on the hard drive.

Long ago you used to be able to tweak your multipliers but they're factory-locked nowadays, so you have to do it through system bus speed tweaking. And you also have to be able to diddle the power supplied upwards by small increments. Faster running means more juice and more heat. A P4 Prescott chip puts out about 100 watts under load before you boost the speeds, from a surface the size of a fingernail, so good cooling and heatsink contact and heat transfer is an absolute must. I mean, that's more juice than an Eazy-Bake oven!

The faster you create order, the more heat you have to put out, lest you violate the law of increasing entropy. My wife ordered our computer from Dell. Ignorance is piss, um, I mean bliss.

But can you do cupcakes in it?

ahhh zeee VedLine vater vetter.

Now we're talking serious performance.

And I can use it in my cars too!

But it cools it down too much to bake cupcakes inside the case anymore. :-(

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